The Christian Dior show opened with a tailored pantsuit, Chiuri went the extra mile creating the Dior most informal and relaxed collection , an elevation of the casual.
“When women strike the world stops.” Chiuri said, as always the designers used her runaway to support her ideas about humanity and deliver messages to empower women.
In a sort of homage, on the runway today there were logo puffers, denim jackets and jeans, jumpsuits in cotton or leather, fishnets and combat boots. The season’s message tee read, “I Say I,” a phrase lifted from the Italian critic and activist Carla Lonzi that is more or less the 1970s equivalent of the millennial “you do you.” In this collection as always, Maria Grazia focused on featuring the attitude and character of the women wearing the clothes.
Through feminism I freed myself from the inferiority-culpability of being clitoridian … and I accused men of everything. Then I started to doubt myself and to defend myself through every possible thought and inquiry into the past. Then I doubted myself completely in rivers of tears … After that I was no longer innocent or guilty. —Carla Lonzi, Taci, anzi parla1
“When Judy talked about this idea of goddesses, my mind immediately came back to my memories of the statues in Rome, of Botticelli, my point of view that is more Italian.”
Maria Grazia Chiuri joined forces with Judy Chicago to realize the idea of the show. So, on the first day of the couture season, we entered the birth canal of Chicago’s installation, there to watch Chiuri summon a golden host of goddesses onto a womb-shaped runway. The backdrop of the runaway featured a message “What if Women rued the world” as a strong statement from the designer to the world.
Over a six-month preparation, Chiuri’s conversation with Chicago birthed this idea about worship of goddesses and the struggle of women artists to find their own means of expression.
So there were the Dior goddesses, in Chiuri in shiffon and silk, walking in their Roman sandals, silken-fringe dresses conjured without stitching, one shoulder drappe dresses, wrap-over floor-length pleated shirtdress with a blouse and a skirt knotted to one side. The Gold color was dominant and big pieces of accessories were features with almost every look.
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